Sewing Missoni

Haberman's Selection of Missoni Knits

What's more fun than Missoni fabric? With it's signature zig-zag pattern and old world craftsmanship, it is in the forefront  modern fashion.  A friend of mine loved the fabric, so I suggested that we make a super-cute, ultra-feminine pencil skirt with it.  It was a perfect opportunity for me to get acquainted with this interesting chrochet knit and share my experience.

Pink Selvage and Yellow Selvage
on opposite ends of fabric

Let's talk about the skirt design first.  This is just a simple pencil skirt, or "tube" with an elastic waistband. Notice the beautiful fushia selvage edge.  We wanted to take advantage of that pop of color, so we used that as the hem.  How easy is that...no hemming! Each selvage edge of this fabric is a different color. To have one continuous color for the entire hem, this skirt required 1 1/4 yards (circumference of hem).  You could use one selvage color for the front and the other color for the back to conserve fabric. This would require only 5/8 yard.

Courtney looking lovely, as usual, in her new Missoni skirt

This loosely-woven wool knit is a bit unstable, porous and "spongy", which presented some unique challenges. Once I finally had the guts to cut into this beautiful fabric, the fabric pieces became slightly misshapen.  It was then that I decided to underline this skirt.  A slinky polyester knit was perfect for the underlining to "re-shape" my cut fabric pieces, to add stability, and for extra coverage.

It took some extra time to perfectly match chevron lines, but it was well worth the effort as the seams are totally camouflaged due to the unique texture of the fabric.  I would recommend making the effort to match the lines - you'll be so proud of yourself!


The last step: waistband. Because this fabric is somewhat bulky I put four small darts (two in front, two in the back) in the waist for a nice fitted waistline. Clip those darts 2" down from the top and press open to eliminate bulk.   Make your casing, feed elastic through (I used 1" elastic), close it up, then your done!

What a nice and easy bold look!

Double-Take on Double-Cloth

We're getting excited here at Haberman Fabrics as we start preparing for fall, bringing in all kinds of fall fabrics.  Consider, for at least one of your fall sewing projects, double-cloth and double-faced fabrics.   Although the terms double-cloth (also called double-weave) and double-faced fabrics are often used interchangeable, they are actually quite different.  Without getting too technical, double-cloth is two distinct layers of fabric joined together by interweaving at various points in the fabric to hold them together as one.   Double-faced, (also called two-faced) fabrics are only one layer of fabric with two attractive sides. What they have in common is that they have no "wrong side", as both sides are equally attractive.

Quilted-look knit double-cloth

The fun thing about sewing with both of these fabrics is that you can show off each side without having to add facings - just finish the edges with a binding or serging and you're good to go.  Some fabrics, like knits, don't require a finished edge at all and will give a nice clean look by just having the raw edge exposed. 

Here is just a sampling of the two-sided fabrics we have in stock.

Add these design elements to show off both sides of these two-sided fabrics.

Flounces are great as you catch glimpses of the other side as the fabric moves.

The Sewing Workshop 
Urban T Shirt

Vogue 1308

Burda 7369

McCalls 5430

Use the contrast on the lapel of a Jacket:

Kwik Sew 3977

The Sewing Workshop 
Haiku Two Jacket

Vogue 8926

Show a peekaboo contrast on the inside of a hi-low skirt

Butterick 5892

McCalls 6567

Other interesting uses for double-cloth and double-faced fabrics:

Contrast the inside of a hood.
Butterick 5791

Single layer reversible wrap.
Christine Johnson Travel Trio Three

We just love this unique neckline 
in a contrast,
or use the contrast 
on the underside.
Vogue 8907